The Day After Dress

Hi!

So it´s one week into our marriage and I finally have a little bit of time to update the blog.

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I will get to the latest sewing project in a minute but I just have to say that the wedding was a dream come true! My vision from the beginning was that since we decided to have a party with friends and family (instead of just doing it in a really close family circle), it had to be simple but fun and memorable with a good band for dancing all night long.

We got all that plus some because the risk we took was choosing the date in September, where the weather is completely unpredictable in Estonia and the wedding day started with the heaviest downpour I have seen in a while and even hail!

It was raining when my dad picked me up from the hairdresser and make up and it was raining when we got to the meeting point with my fiance… and then within a few minutes the sky cleared up and the sun came out so when we walked towards the wedding venue, we didn´t need the umbrella at all! And the rest of the day was calm, warm and sunny so when we had the photos taken, we were actually looking for a shady spot with the photographer Marit Kuusk (you can see her works here)!

The photo with the pink background is taken in our soon-to-be-finished sewing room/office, because we wanted some of the wedding photos to be taken in our home to remember how it was when we tied the knot!

Anyway, many couples in Estonia live happily together and have kids without officially getting married, but we felt this was the right thing for us and it feels amazing! Also, it felt like the right thing to celebrate it with a party and it was a success as we managed to skip all the traditional games that are played in Estonian weddings (that I am not a fan of) and simply have a good time with our guests and dance!

I made a dress for the chance that I get tired of the long wedding gown (which I did not make myself, it was made for me in Riga, Latvia at Ingrida Bridal), but in the end I didn´t change during the party and wore it for the day after since we had invited our guests to take a tour of the house, to see how far we have come with it since last summer. It will be ready to move in in a few weeks so all this is very exciting.

But the dress:

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The pattern is from Burdastyle 8/2014 model 116, again one of my immediate favorites at first glance, but it took me that long to make it.

 

The dress obviously is not a difficult one to make, but the pattern instructions are insane! I just did my own thing from the casing on, and actually did not understand initially that the casing for the waist rubber band has to be created using the seam allowance of the bodice… so I trimmed it too short and had to attach a separate piece of lining fabric to the inside to make it work. Actually it is impossible to understand it on the inside and it might look even more neat.

I also didn´t bother to turn the edge of the casing for the back opening under, I just serged it and I think it saved me from a lot of work and a lot of excessive fabric around there:

 

Instead of making the drawstring from the dress fabric, I bought some ribbon in the matching shade and it works even better due to its silkiness, gliding smoothly through the casing. By the way, if it is not clear, the back opening also has rubber band, so the ribbon is there only to secure the opening a little bit from opening too much.

I used iron-on hemming tape for the hem and it saved the dress because I finished it merely two hours before leaving for the hairdresser on the wedding day!

I also used a special pen this time for pattern markings and seam lines. It was supposed to fade off in a few days, but actually it didn´t! The green pen lines showed through the fabric and I desperately tried removing them with a moist towel. Initially the lines seemed to disappear but later when the dress had dried out, the bleeding marks of he green colour were still visible on close inspection. I still wore the dress and I believe no one noticed and thankfully the green was all gone after the first wash, now I just know better the next time!

As it often happens, there was no time to take the photos on the actual day after, so these pictures are taken a week later and at my parents house:

I am super satisfied with the result and I am contemplating making another one in a different fabric. I just love how simple it is, but it has this trick to it with the back opening and flowy skirt.

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The shoes are actually my wedding shoes, which I did change quite soon into much more comfortable sneakers even with the wedding dress and below you can see how I wore them during our house tour. The shoes are from Dune and the sneakers from H&M:

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Now that this big thing is done, I can relax a bit and hopefully enjoy sewing in the new sewing room soon!

Happy Fall, everyone!

Blue Cross Dress

Hello all!

I once again did not manage to post anything in November, but it has been really tough to balance work, school and everything else that I want to and have to do lately.

Nevertheless, I was determined to continue the tradition of an annual party dress! The photos, however, were taken just today, as I didn´t manage to do it at the Christmas party in more festive surroundings.

 

The pattern is originally from Knipmode (I am not sure which issue), but I got my pattern from its German version called Fashion Style, from August 2015. I cut the size 38 for the bodice and gradually widened to size 40 for the skirt.

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The dress is fully lined and due to the interesting back, was a bit of a challenge to complete and fit. I think the dress still is a bit wide for me when I look at the back cross detail, but I actually did not notice it before so now that I have been wearing it in public I think I am completely done with it and there is no way I would rip it open once again. Anyway, I guess anyone who has tried to take photos of their garments, knows that details otherwise not visible have the habit to appear in the photos.

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Despite of that, the dress feels very comfortable to wear and although the fabric is just a cheap polyester, it is somewhat heavy-ish and falls nicely. I suspect that the back detail would also fit better if the fabric had more stability, like the cotton stretch that has been used in the magazine samples. In order to offer some stability for the back detail, I used fusible interfacing for the outer details of the back.

The seam allowances are finished with bias tape and I used French seams on the lining.

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I really like the pattern, since it canbe combined with a jacket and then look totally suitable for office/work environment, if necessary.

The shoes are Dune Claudia, super comfy party shoes, I also have them in black patent/suede combination. I know that quite a lot of people find animal prints tacky, but I really loved this fun combination with blue suede and they are a nice accent for the one-color dress.

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I am afraid new year will start as busy as the ending one, so I don´t know when I will be able to post something again, but I am still spending the scarce free time I have with my sewing machine.

I hope you have wonderful holidays and a Happy New Year!

 

Burda Colourblock Dress II

Ever since finishing the first Burda Colourblock Dress, I have had various colour combinations on my mind for a second or even a third version of this pattern – Burda 02/2012, model 117b.

I have been and still continue to wear the first version very often and it is very likely that the new dress will be one of my favourites as well:

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As the pattern had been tested before, it was even easier and quicker to sew it up this time. The only time-consuming detail is changing the threads – when connecting different colour blocks, I use different colours of upper an lower thread accordingly.

The size I cut is the same as always for Burda patterns – size 38. The material is ponte knit – exactly the same quality and weight of fabric in different colours. I think this is also the most difficult part in colour blocking – finding the same fabric in different shades (and more than 2!) is not always easy.

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Isn´t it amazing how the shoes can change the whole look? I love high heels, but due to my work and lifestyle I cannot wear them as often as I would like to.

In March I will spend a short holiday in Paris with my mother and obviously the sportier look will be my choice. The edgy sneakers are from my trip to Portugal in September.

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I think the pattern contains endless options – in addition to playing with different colours, one could also combine the same colour but different textures or materials – say, black ponte knit and faux leather? This would also be a solution if the same fabric cannot be found in several colours, as I pointed out earlier.

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Ikat Party Dress

I wish you all a very happy 2015, may your hopes and wishes come true!

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I wasn´t able to find a quiet moment in the hectic but nevertheless enjoyable holiday period to blog about some of the recent finished objects, but found the time today, on the first day of the new year.

It has become somewhat of a tradition to make myself a new dress for each holiday season and 2014 was no exception.

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This time I was looking for a suitable pattern for the ikat fabric I got from Istanbul in spring. The problem was that due to the busy pattern of the fabric and the fact that I only had 1,6 m of only 80 cm wide fabric, it had to be really simple. In the end, I decided to try a totally new pattern, from the book Famous Frocks: The Little Black Dress: Patterns for 20 Garments Inspired by Fashion Icons.

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The pattern I used is a variation of Kate Moss inspired dress:

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According to the size chart, I cut size S, but if I decide to use any of the patterns from the book in the future, I will cut a size smaller for sure, it was too wide everywhere. Thankfully the pattern is simple, so it wasn´t a big problem to take in on both sides.

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Although the pattern instructions don´t call for a lining, I added one, because the ikat silk is very thin and delicate. Actually this was the hardest thing about making that dress – trying to tame the extremely fraying material. I used up the last remnant of my favourite lining fabric – the black stretch I got from Poland some time ago. Since it was a remnant, I didn´t get enough length for my lining and I used a piece of beautiful lingerie border lace to finish the lining hem.

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Attaching the black sequins one by one was actually quite enjoyable, although it took me a few evenings during the busiest pre-holiday days at work. As you can see, the last row is double on one side and single on the other, I don´t even know if this happened because of the sequin-placement or if the collar piece is slightly wider on one side. However, it doesn´t bother me since it is nearly impossible to notice unless one is specifically examining the dress. The sequins are only attached to the front part of the collar.

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By the time I write this, I have been wearing the dress on several occasions, since the end of the year has been full of parties and concerts and I have loved wearing it every single time. The only fear I have is that it may not last very long as the fabric is so delicate.

I am also super satisfied with the first pair of comfortable party shoes, they are model Claudia by Dune London:

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This years holidays have been very special and I have enjoyed every moment. I even managed to squeeze in a short city trip to Amsterdam as well, more about this soon!

Zig Zag Zipper Dress

Hey!

I am usually not into using the same pattern repeatedly, but after stumbling upon some discounted bright turquoise blue double knit which I just had to have, I needed a simple pattern to show off the color and avoid visual overkill.

I immediately thought of my Zig Zag Znake Dress and McCall´s pattern 6243, view C.

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Since the pattern was already prepared, I needed a few evenings to nearly finish the dress, but still had to stitch the last 20 cm of the hem by hand in a few minutes before a concert I attended last Sunday.

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It seems now that this celebrated the last summery evening of this weird summer, where the weather has been into extremes only – either very hot and dry or then pouring rain like there is no tomorrow. The concert took place at yet another beautiful manor of Estonia, this time a wooden one called Kõltsu. If you are interested, check it out here.

I have used zippers for the diagonal seams. It was a random idea that occurred to me as I was wandering around the fabric store and trying to picture the dress in my mind. At first the idea was to use golden zippers for some extra bling, but the ones that I managed to find did not look nice when unzipped, the teeth appeared yellow instead of golden, as if the gold was only sprayed over the zipper.

I finally went with a matching shade and got two 80cm zippers, of which I only used a half on each diagonal seam. The hardest part was removing the zipper teeth from the seam allowances.

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As you can see, I am repeating myself not only with the pattern, but with the color combination choices as well. I do have a LOT of shoes, but when it comes to turquoise color, I only seem to be able to match it with some kind of a pink. I also thought of a pair of golden wedges, but for this particular event I felt more comfortable wearing flats.

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I am not very satisfied with how the dress looks on the backside. The nylon/spandex double knit is lighter in weight that the cotton one I used for the previous version (the Zig Zag Snake Dress). As a result I should be very careful with my underwear choices the next time I wear it and I am also considering adjusting the dress even more for my swayback.

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The fabric doesn´t fray at all so there was a great temptation to leave the hemline and arm and neck holes unfinished. In the end I still went the traditional way and stitched them by hand but didn´t bother to finish the seam allowances on the inside.

The front zipper in more detail:

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All in all it is a great summer project to make – quick and fun!

I will be off for holidays in a few days, so most probably the next post will be tagged as “Travel” again 😉

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The Green Sweetheart Dress

Hey there! Just a few days ago I had a great opportunity to visit Padise, one of Estonia´s many manors and enjoy a concert in the ruins of a monastery nearby.

For that event I finally managed to finish a dress that I had started exactly a year ago! I don´t know how it happened or why did I stop, but really, it took me year to get my act together and finish the zipper side seam (the zipper was actually already set in!) and the hemline…. oh well. But I am very satisfied with the result, the only regret is not having finished it earlier!

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The dress is  model 116 from BurdaStyle 4/2013, aka the Sweetheart Dress on burdastyle.com.

116_0413_B_large (1)116_technical_large (1)As you can see, I have omitted the small bow and the waistband. However, I am in search for a fuchsia pink belt to match with the shoes. I have always liked the contrasting combination of green and pink 🙂

I cut Burda size 38, but I might have left wider seam allowances for the hip area to ensure that I can make it fit. I cannot be really sure, because I started sewing the garment already a year ago….

I think what eventually made me stop halfway was the bodice and the shoulder seams, although it is ridiculous because the most difficult part was done by this time last year. Maybe I just ran out of energy for this project, but yes,  cannot say that the bodice is so easy to make, especially if you want the corners of the front and back shoulder straps to look sharp. In my case, it was also the rather thick, pique fabric (cotton mixed with some elastane for slight stretch) that I chose, a souvenir from my last years trip to Austria. It was rather tricky to get it fit right with all the facings and sharp corners.

With hindsight I think maybe the dress would be better if I had bothered with a lining instead of the facings that I had to bias tape one by one, adding quite some bulk like that.

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I also planned to make it a bit longer at first, but while trying to determine the perfect length, suddenly the shorter look seemed more fun. I guess it supports the playful colour of the fabric.

Some details of the bodice and the texture of the fabric can be seen here:

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 If anyone is wondering about the shoes, these bright pink silk shantung Ralph Lauren espadrilles are another souvenir from Austria last year. There are lots of shades still available on amazon.com. Very nice, but for narrower feet, just like mine.

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As you can see in the photos, we finally have some real summer here in Estonia this year and I am so glad for it, I can finally wear my dresses and not only the raincoat! I hope all of you in the northern hemisphere are enjoying your summer as well!

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Cross Stitch Rose Top

Hello!

For the past one month I don´t think there has been a day where I didn´t do anything sewing-related.

I have several half-finished projects and some finished ones too, it is just the matter of taking the photos, which, given the limited daylight in winter in Estonia, is the most complicated task about the whole thing.

This is also why the following photos may give you chills – I had to take them outside in order to have better light conditions. But surprisingly, for those few minutes outside in snow, it actually did not feel cold at all!

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I used the Burda Retro Blouse pattern, available on burdastyle.com. As far as I know, it is only available there and has not been recently published in any BurdaStyle magazine.

The photos are from burdastyle.com:

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I cut my regular size 38 and the changes I made were: omitting the side seam zipper, adding a lining and hemming the sleeves. I used French seams that have quickly become my favourite technique for lightweight fabrics.

I didn’t need a zipper because both of the fabrics I used are slightly elastic. I got them on my trip to Poland in summer, as well as the Gütermann thread I used, so it is kind of a nice souvenir from Poland for me!

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There is really nothing much more to tell about the top, it was easy to sew and fits well.

Some details and my freshly committed sin – new shoes,  here:

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Other news include that my dear friend Liise from Spain is here for a few days and brought me two issues of Patrones magazine! I am super happy for it, although one of them is full of great coats and jackets and since my Stardust coat is totally on hold, I will not even think of starting a new coat project before this one is finished.

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